Pet Insurance Blog

Are you aware that a single flea can drink 15 times its weight in blood each day?

Did you know that you can buy 11 years of heartworm prevention and pay less than the cost of treating your dog one time for heartworm disease?

Did you know that up to 15% of commercial potting soil contains roundworm eggs?

Lets cover a little bit about what each of these three parasites are.

Fleas and ticks are blood-drinking parasites that can also trasmit serious diseases to our pets. Ticks can trasnmit infections like Lyme disease, and fleas can transmit tapeworms and Bartonella-the bacterior that cause cat-scratch fever in humans.

Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes and they can infect dogs and cats. Even indoor pets aren’t completely safe from heartowrms; 25% of heartowrm-infected cats live completely indoors.  Heartworms damage the heart and lungs and can cause death!! 

Roundworms, hookworms, and other intestinal parasites can cause serious illness in pets.  Some of these parasites are even transmittable to humans!  Fecal tests can be done at your vets office to determine if your pet has any of these parasites.

Routine visits to your vet are essential to your pets health.  Talk to your vet about what medication is best suited to protect your pet agains these parsites.  A healthy pet makes for a happy pet and happy pet owners.

To help maintain your pets health consider pet insurance to help offset the high cost of pet care. 

Obtain your pet insurance quote here: 

http://www.aspcapetinsurance.com/enroll/?priority=BR10MARS87

If anyone has lost a pet, you know how hard it is to say goodbye to your companion, your friend and to some – family.  For me, one of the most difficult things to do is having to make the choice to have a pet put down.  It’s hard enough losing an animal but to have to make the decision for them is heart wrenching.

Animals can’t tell you when they are sick or when they hurt.  You need to deduce their illness based on behavior.  Some animals, like cats, will go great lengths to show that they are not ill.  This is a survival instinct.  Change in appetite, change in sleep patterns, in exercise, urination or defecation, lack of play…these are all signs that something isn’t right with your pet.   When this happens, seek veterinary assistance immediately.  The sooner an animal is treated, the better they will feel and you will too.

Today I find myself in one of those very difficult situations where I have done all I can for one of my animals.  For several months we have tried various things to help him yet his weight is down another pound and he is now half the cat he used to be.  After discussing matters with the vet, weighing what the illness possibilities are verses his age and the amount of testing he would have to go through, as a family we decided to not allow him to suffer through all that.  We allowed him to go peacefully and with dignity.

This was such a difficult decision since I had rescued him from my neighborhood where he was starving just about 9 years ago.  He was about the same weight when he died as he was when I found him.  Previous owners had declawed all four of his paws and he had no means of defending himself or of catching any prey for his supper.  For three months I religiously brought fresh food and water out to him.  He would never let me get close to him.  Then one October day when the temperatures dropped so low, this poor cat couldn’t take being cold one more day.  As I went outside to bring him food and water, he crawled into my lap without coaxing.  I picked him up and he wrapped his paws around my neck and waist and held on tightly much the same as a two year old child would.  I took him in, gave him a blanket to snuggle in, took him to the vet to be checked out because I had other cats, and we found that he was very ill from eating something in the wild.  He had an intestinal infection of sorts and one of the worse cases of ear mites the vet had ever seen; so bad in fact that they were completely swollen shut.

Within a few months he began improving, eating better, allowing us to touch him once in a while and he took a liking to my other male cat.  They were good friends and played well together.

I was able to give him 9 additional years to his life that he would not have had if he remained out doors.  Still, it is painful to say goodbye but in my mind, I see him watching birds and chasing butterflies somewhere in a field we have yet to experience.

Goodbye dear friend, Lunar.  

For pet insurance, visit http://www.aspcapetinsurance.com/enroll/?priority=BR10MARS87

MEOW…..

As described by Wikipedia, a meow is a sound used by cats to signal a request to their mother or to a human.  This request might be much like a child – I’m hungry, I’m thirsty, I’m bored, I want attention, I don’t feel well, I want to play…….Pay attention to me PLEASE!!!

PURRING…

Is a sound made by most feline species, this is a tonal buzzing that can characterize differently between cats. Domestic cants purr in a frequency of 25 to 150 vibrations per second.  Purring is often understood as a signal of happiness, however, cats sometimes purr when they are ill, tense, traumatized or in pain.

There is no unique anatomical feature that is responsible for the purring sound a feline makes.

GROWLING or HISSING…

Distinctive sounds when a feline is angry or feels cornered or threatened.  This serves as a warning to the offending party to “BACK OFF”.  If the warning is not headed, a more serious attack may follow.  Felines may engage in behavior such as batting with their paws, claws or they may lash out and pounce.  Cats sometimes make chirping or chattering noises when they are observing prey.

Cats are more likely to communicate through their body language.  For example, a cat laying on its back with stomach and chest exposed conveys trust and comfort; arching their backs is a sign of fear or aggression; flattened ears mean that a cat feels threatened and may attack; mouth open and no teeth exposed suggest he wants to play.

CAT TAILS…

A cat’s tail is used as a signal quite often.  A tail held high is much like us standing tall and straight, it conveys happiness and confidence and means of greeting especially to their humans.  A half raised tail shows less pleasure and when they are unhappy it is indicated with a tail held low.  A cat’s tail may wag or move rapidly to express a state of conflict.  When a tail is held high and twitches, he is excited and this is often mistaken for anger. However, cats will twitch the tips of their tails when hunting or when irritated while larger twitching indicates total displeasure.  A puffed up tail indicates that your cat has recently been surprised or scared and the hair on their back may stand straight up.  A cat will then turn its body sideways to a threat in order to increase the appearance of their size.  What about the tailless variety you ask? Well Tailless cats, such as the Manx, which possess only a small stub of a tail as the result of breeding genetics, move the stub around as if they possess a full tail.

NOSEY NOSEY…

A friendly greeting from a cat is touching noses.  Some cats will rub their face along their humans cheek, hands, ankles, etc as a friendly greeting or a sign of affection.  Sometimes people refer to this as “marking their territory”.  Through rubbing, cats leave a scent from the scent glands located in the cat’s cheeks.  More commonly, a cat will do a “head bonk” by bumping someone with the front part of its head to express affection.  If your cat is anything like mine, this is powerful affection and a cat can create quite a bit of force to show his love for you…. I have the black and blue marks to prove it.

LICKING…  

Most people associate licking as being a “dog thing”.  Yes they see cats clean themselves and sometimes other felines, but what they don’t realize is cats will lick their owners too.

Cats lick each other for grooming purposes. Cats that are very close to one another will groom each other.  Since cats see their human companions as just big cats, they will lick their humans as well as a means of grooming them in addition to showing care and affection.
Your cats tongue has numerous knobs called papillae on the surface which are located at the tongues center.  The papillae form backward-facing hooks containing large amounts of keratin – the same material found in human fingernails.  These hooks provide the abrasiveness a cat needs for self grooming.  The strength of these hooks also assist in helping a cat hold food and/or struggle with prey.

Although the cats tongue assists with cleaning itself and untangling hair, it is important for us to groom them regularly by brushing, cleaning and removing loose and dead hair.  Otherwise your feline friend ingests hair, hairballs form and cause vomiting which can impact their gastrointestinal tract.  So to avoid stepping on that wet hairball in the morning with your bare feet on the way to the bathroom, groom your cat regularly.  This will help both of you to be happy.

KNEADING MOTION…

Just like your mom making bread dough and working the dough with her hands, a cat will do the same type of kneading motion.  Cats will use this action and purr at the same time to show contentment and affection for their companions.  This is also a method of comforting itself.  This is an instinctive motion that begins when they are young to stimulate the mother cat’s release of milk during nursing.

There are scent glands on the underside of a cats paws which release a small amount of scent onto the person or object they paw which is then marked as being “theirs” the same way as urinating may mark their territory for other animals to observe and respect.

Now if I could just train my cat to massage my shoulders after work every day….life would be good.

Hopefully the information provided here will provide you with a little bit of insight into your cat’s behavior.  Shower them with love and affection, care for them and you will have a long time companion. 

For pet insurance, visit http://www.aspcapetinsurance.com/enroll/?priority=BR10MARS87

For any other insurance requirements you may have, visit Mars Insurance Agency.

Animal shelters, rescue groups, and reputable breeders are unquestionably the best sources for obtaining healthy, well-socialized dogs.

People do get wonderful Family pets from other sources, but most other sources are extremely risky.  Some promote poor breeding practices, while others encourage the overpopulation that results in the killing of millions of animals yearly.

Pet Shops

While it is not impossible to get a healthy dog from a pet shop, in general it is a bad idea to support stores that sell animals (as opposed to stores that sell pet supplies- and sometimes offer cage space for animals from animal shelters or rescue groups).  Many of the dogs sold in pet shops are the products of puppy mills, wholesale operations that breed dogs in large numbers purely for economic gain, often with very little concern for the behavioral or physical health or happiness of either the parents or the offspring.

Commercial Breeders

Large-scale commercial farms or kennels that breed so frequently they always have animals for sale cannot possibly provide each dog with the daily one-on-one attention that he needs and deserves.  As a result, puppies that come from these sources often suffer from medical and behavioral deficiencies.  Some of these breeders supply pet stores; others sell directly to the public.

Backyard Breeders

Although there are many reputable breeders who run their businesses out of their homes, it is not a good idea to obtain dogs from “backyard breeders,” people who are not conscientious about their breeding programs and are more concerned with financial gain than with the health and well-being of their animals.  A few red flags are breeders who are not knowledgeable about their breed, who do not check you out as well as check them out, who are not active in their breed club or local canine organizations (such as the local humane society), who do not register their dogs, or who keep their dogs isolated in basements, garages or other unpleasant spaces.

Stray Dogs

Rescuing a stray dog is always a gamble.  Often strays have serious medical or behavioral problems that can require a lot of time and money to correct.  You should call your local animal control agency if you encounter a stray that seems vicious or injured.  If you find a stray and decide to keep him, take him to a veterinarian right away.  You must be prepared to nurse him back to health, if necessary, or seek professional help to modify problem behaviors.  If he is intact, have him neutered.  If you do not want to keep him, turn him into a shelter or animal control agency.  If you can’t keep him but want to take a more active role, file a report with animal control, run advertisements in local publications, put up “Found Dog” signs, and take the dog to a vet for a checkup.  If no one claims the dog, start trying to find him a new home.  It may take 6 to 12 months to find a home for an adult mixed breed.

Free to a Good Home

Finding a puppy through newspaper ads, signs and posters may be slightly less of a gamble than rescuing a stray off the street, but it is still an unreliable means of obtaining a family pet.  Often puppies advertised in this way are the result of an unplanned pregnancy (this is why it is so important for all dog owners to have their pets neutered).  Sometimes the father is not even know, which makes it difficult to assess what the puppies’ adult temperaments might be.  In other cases, the puppies are the result of a pregnancy initiated by people inexperienced and undereducated in responsible breeding practices.  These puppies can carry genes for serious defects.

It is also risky to adopt an adult dog from a family, as the dog may have behavior problems.  Most behavior problems can be remedied with careful, consistent training, but many such problems are best handled by a person experienced with dogs.

There are, of course, situations in which a family cannot keep a healthy, well-adjusted dog (for example, if someone in the home has become allergic to the animal), and will advertise his availability.  If you are interested in adopting a family dog, speak with the owner, find out the dog’s routine and habits, observe the dog in his home environment, and call the veterinarian who has been caring for the animal.  If you like the dog and feel sure that you can handle him, consider going forward with the adoption.

Information courtesy of ASPCA Complete Guide to Dogs book.

For pet insurance, visit http://www.aspcapetinsurance.com/enroll/?priority=BR10MARS87

And, for all your insurance needs, contact Mars Insurance Agency or visit our website at www.marsinsurance.com

History The original Labradors were all-purpose water dogs originating in Newfoundland, not Labrador. Not only did the breed not originate in Labrador, but it also was not originally called the Labrador Retriever. The Newfoundland of the early 1800s came in different sizes, one of which was the “Lesser” of “St. John’s” Newfoundland- the earliest incarnation of the Labrador. These dogs- medium-sized black dogs with close hair- not only retrieved game but also retrieved fish, pulled small fishing boats through icy water, and helped the fisherman in any task involving swimming. Eventually the breed died out in Newfoundland in large part because of a heavy dog tax. However, a core of Labradors had been taken to England in the early 1800s, and it is from these dogs, along with crosses to other retrievers, that the breed continued. It was also in England that the breed earned its reputation as an extraordinary retriever of upland game. Initially breeders favored black Labs, and culled yellow and chocolate colors. By early 1900s the other colors had become acceptable, although still not as widely favored as the blacks. The breed was recognized by the English Kennel Club in 1903 and by the AKC in 1917. The popularity of this breed has grown steadily until it became the most popular breed in America in 1991 and remains so today. Temperament Few breeds so richly deserve their popularity as does the Labrador Retriever. When trained, it is obedient and amiable, and tolerates well the antics of children, other dogs, and other pets. It will be a calm housedog, playful yard dog, and intense field dog all on the same day. It is eager to please, enjoys learning, and excels in obedience. It is a powerful breed that loves to swim and retrieve. It needs daily physical and mental challenges to keep it occupied, however; a bored Lab can get into trouble. The Labrador’s hunting instinct drives it to roam; breeders say “his home is under his hat.” Upkeep Labradors are active and sociable dogs. They need daily exercise, preferably in the form of retrieving or swimming. Owners with swimming pools either must fence them out or be prepared to share the pool with the dog. The Lab coat sheds water easily. It needs weekly brushing to remove dead hair. Although Labs can live outdoors in temperate climates, they are much happier indoors with their family. Health • Major concerns: CHD (Coronary Heart Disease), elbow dysplasia, OCD, obesity, patellar luxation (knee problem that causes lameness) • Minor concerns: cataract, CPRA (Central progressive retinal atrophy (CPRA) is a different disease from PRA involving the retinal pigment epithelium “http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Progressive_retinal_atrophy”), hot spots, retinal dysplasia, hypothyroidism • Occasionally seen: diabetes, entropian also called cherry eye, distichiasis (effects the growth of eye lashes) • Suggested tests: hip, elbow, eye, knee • Life span: 10-12 years Form and Function The Labrador is a moderate dog, not extreme in any way. It is square of slightly longer than tall, of fairly large bone and substance. Its broad head and strong jaws should enable it to carry the largest game birds, such as Canada geese. Its heavy body set and strong legs enable it to swim and run powerfully. Its coat, which is short, straight, and dense with a soft undercoat, is weather-proof and helps to protect it from icy waters. The Lab is a working retriever and should possess style without over refinement and substance without clumsiness. (information from Encyclopedia of Dog Breeds Second Edition by D. Caroline Colie, Ph.D.)

For pet insurance, please visit: http://www.aspcapetinsurance.com/enroll/?priority=BR10MARS87

For all your insurance needs contact Mars Insurance Agency or visit us at www.marsinsurance.com

With its bushy tail and arched back, this cat is one of the world’s most popular new breeds.  Like its shorthaired Abyssinian forebear, the Somali has a ticked coat: Each hair on its body has three to twelve bands of color.  The bands are darker than the ground color and produce a vibrant shimmer when the cat is in full coat.  The facial markings are striking, resembling theatrical eyeliner.  Somalis are natural hunters and thrive in the outdoors.

The head has a moderate wedge, with smooth lines and slight nose break in profile.  Ears are wide-set, large, cupped and tufted.  The faces of Somalis have dark-rimmed eyes surrounded by “spectacles” of lighter hair, and show clear tabby markings on their cheeks and forehead.  The body is medium sized, lithe and muscular.  Legs are long with paws that are rounded and tufted.  The tail is long with a full brush of hair.  The coat is soft, fine, and of medium length.

Breed History

The genetic roots of this breed go back to founder stock in Britain.  Longhaired kittens appeared occasionally in Abyssinian litters, and in the 1940s, breeder Janet Robertson exported Abyssinians to North America and Australia.

Decedents of these Abyssinians sometimes produce fuzzy, dark kittens: In the 1960s, a Canadian breeder, Ken McGill produced the official first Somali.  Using McGill’s stock, the breed was fully developed in North America by the late 1970s.  Somalis appeared in Europe in the 1980s, and by 1991 had worldwide recognition.

Overview

Date of origin: 1963

Place of Origin: Canada and the United States

Ancestry: Abyssinian

Other Name: Longhaired Abyssinian

Weight Range: 8-12 lbs (3.5-5.5 kg)

Temperament: Quiet but extroverted; Active  and Sociable.

Grooming: Moderate

For pet insurance visit http://www.aspcapetinsurance.com/enroll/?priority=BR10MARS87

For all your insurance needs contact Mars Insurance or visit our website www.marsinsurance.com

Sure, dogs and cats make fantastic companions.  But a pack of other pets can hop, gallop, swim and slither their way into your heart, too.  Each comes with its own special considerations.  Here’s a guide to help you discover which furry or scaly friend is perfect for you.

Rabbits-

Positives: Rabbits are playful, friendly and form close bonds with their owners.  They can also be litter-trained so the next time you’re stuck in drive-time Beltline traffic you can rest assured Mr. Whiskers will be fine until you get there.

Downside: Rabbits need more than pellet food- namely, roughage in the form of hay and fresh vegetables.  So you might need to garb an extra tote bag for your Farmers’ Market excursions.

Perfect for: Apartment and condo residents anywhere.  Rabbits make only slightly more noise than a carrot, and their cages are hardly a space-hog.

Price Tag: $30-$45

Horses-

Positives: Graceful, beautiful animals that embody the rugged individualism.  Carbon footprint high on your concerns?  Park the hybrid in the garage and strap on that saddle, cowboy.

Downside: Drilling fence holes is really hard work, and where in the world to keep all that hay?  Also, a simple pooper-scooper and plastic baggies are out.  See: shovel.

Perfect for: Only those with the biggest yards (or fields) on the outskirts of the city.

Price Tag: $1000 and up

Fish-

Positives: Extremely quiet and soothing.  Maybe you like the water.  Guess what: so do they-it’s an instant bonding moment.

Downside: Cleaning the tank is work-intensive, daily feedings are needed and setup costs can be steep.  Live on the third floor with no elevator?  Lugging the tank upstairs can be a hassle.

Perfect for: People with kids.  Also, if you’re feeling info-overload, you can ditch the TV and put a fish tank in its place.

Price tag: $2-$50

Snakes-

Positives: You’ll definitely stand out in a crowd, and they’re easy to care for- you only have to feed them once a week or so.  Short on cash?  Take your reptilian down a busy street and make a few bucks as a street performer.

Downside: If they happen to get loose, catching them won’t be as simple as putting out a dish of food and calling their name.

Perfect for: Counterculture Isthmus dwellers.

Price tag: $40 to $200

Mice & Rats-

Positives: Incredibly smart, interactive and playful.  They’re also big fans of day trips, so throw them in your coat pocket and take them for a trip.  Easily amused by the torn-up newspaper (recycle!) padding in their cages.

Downside: Short life spans, so not for those looking for a long-term attachment.  Unfortunately, no one’s invented a tailless rat, so you’re going to be stuck looking at that thing.

Perfect for: Price point and ease of care make rodents perfect for students, or busy families with one too many dogs already.

Price Tag: $6-$15

Article courtesy of Madison Magazine December 2008

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For all your insurance needs contact Mars Insurance Agency or visit us online at www.marsinsurance.com

Whose Pet is Safe with This Kind of “Animal Control”?
Minneapolis Declares Dog “Potentially Dangerous” After Having Apparently Hurting No One or Nothing
Published 09/23/2011 05:50:17 PM

by Mike Fry

I knew it would happen. I predicted it would happen. And, now, it is happening. A new ordinance passed in 2010 in the City of Minneapolis to make it easier for Animal Control to declare dogs either “dangerous” or “potentially dangerous”, even if the dogs have, technically, done nothing wrong, is going to court. Animal Ark’s legal team had previously concluded that the new ordinance was overtly unconstitutional.

The ordinance, among other issues, described so-called “aggressive” dog behavior in terms our legal team believed were illegal due to what is termed the “void for vagueness” doctrine. This doctrine states that, “If a person of ordinary intelligence cannot determine what persons are regulated, what conduct is prohibited, or what punishment may be imposed under a particular law, then the law will be deemed unconstitutionally vague.”

The language is pretty clear. If a law does not clearly indicate what behavior is prohibited by the law, in specific, objective terms, the law is unconstitutional. The new Minneapolis ordinance allowed Animal Control to deem any dog “dangerous” or “potentially dangerous” even if it had never bitten, and based entirely on testimony of a so-called “victim” (even if there was no injury).

The change in law followed several low-profile cases where MACC had tried to deem friendly pets “dangerous”. In the most extreme case, MACC reportedly issued a “destruct order” for a 12-week-old Golden Retriever puppy. A young girl had been playing with the puppy and was running in circles with the puppy chasing her. The girl tripped and fell on the puppy.

A minor injury resulted. Adults present when this event occurred reported that no one really knew if the injury was a result of a bite from the puppy, or from the child falling. Yet, reportedly, the City of Minneapolis issued a “confiscation” order for the puppy.

Fortunately, the puppy’s owner lived in another municipality. So the City of Minneapolis needed to send a request to that city to get the puppy. When police officers arrived at the home of the “guilty” “golden retriever” they were reportedly shocked to find a small, playful puppy that had a “dangerous dog” declaration on its head. Fortunately, the officers refused to confiscate the puppy. This story was corroborated by the officers.

A similar story was also reported to Animal Ark, that had an unfortunate ending. A young girl was playing fetch with a young lab at a family celebration. They played for at least a couple of hours, and no aggression was observed from the dog. However, following the play session, the parents of the girl noticed a small mark on the palm of her hand. When questioned about it, the girl indicated the mark was caused by the stick she had been throwing for the dog.

In spite of the explanation, the girl’s parents filed a complaint with Minneapolis Animal Care and Control. In spite of the best efforts of the owner of the dog, it was reportedly killed by the City of Minneapolis as a “Dangerous Dog”.

There was another, more public, case of Minneapolis Animal Care and Control issuing a kill order on a dog that had simply barked at the mail carrier. I am not making that up.

I first learned of that case before I knew about the others. One morning, I received a call from a television news reporter. She described the situation as one in which a medium-sized dog got out of the house as the mail carrier was delivering mail. A child in the home had failed to latch the screen door, and the dog easily pushed it open. The mail carrier turned and began to run away from the barking dog (something mail carriers are supposed to be trained to never do… because doing so can cause a dog to chase and bite). The dog followed the mail carrier a short distance, still barking, but did not bite. The dog’s owner quickly came outside and brought the dog inside.

Not knowing about the other potentially problematic cases of Minneapolis Animal Care and Control over-reacting to what appear to be normal dog behaviors, I told the reporter that I didn’t believe the story and that I could not comment until I personally verified it with the City of Minneapolis.

I hung up and called Minneapolis Animal Control. I spoke with Animal Control Officer Tom Doty, who personally verified the facts in the case.

The dog, that had done nothing other than bark at the mail carrier, was being held at Minneapolis Animal Control, labeled as “dangerous” and an order to have the dog destroyed was in place. The owner of the dog was appealing. I was speechless.

When news of the story broke, I began receiving complaints from other Minneapolis residents about the City confiscating and killing their dogs for behaviors that did not meet the legal definition of “dangerous”. Some of the stories were corroborated by others. The cases referenced above were some of the most egregious.

Fast forward to 2010: MACC uses another high-profile case – in which a mail carrier was actually bitten and injured by a dog – to push through a new ordinance that allowed them to deem animals “Dangerous” or “Potentially Dangerous”, even if they have never bitten anyone or anything. From my perspective, they appear to have been implementing an ordinance to try to make “legal” what they had apparently been doing for quite a while.

In the current case, a dog, that, even according to Minneapolis Animal Care and Control Records, does not appear to have bitten any person or animal, is being declared “potentially dangerous”. Predictably a law suit is coming forward.

When the new, unconstitutional ordinance was being considered by the city of Minneapolis, we wrote letters and sent emails to various City officials objecting to the ordinance on Constitutional grounds. Most of the officials never responded.

We did receive a response from Burt Osborne, Director of Regulatory Services for the City of Minneapolis. His response read, in part:

“Quit threatening a lawsuit and just do it.  The legal system exists to settle disputes like this.”

It is worth pointing out that we never threatened any litigation against the City. We simply stated that our legal team felt strongly that the ordinance was overtly unconstitutional, and, if implemented, would result in expensive and unnecessary litigation. Osborne ended his email with the following statement:

“Quit bothering my staff who have real work to do.”
Apparently, the City is more than willing to squander resources defending unconstitutional laws and rounding up and killing animals that have done nothing wrong. Because of this, Animal Ark believes the legal challenge to the City is an important one. We are setting up a legal fund to help the dog’s owner defray some of the legal costs. People from all over Minnesota – and especially Minneapolis residents – cannot let Minneapolis get away with this. Tell the City you want them to follow the law, not make laws that let them do whatever they want.

Do so by making a donation to our Animal Legal Defense Fund.

More background on the current case

The current case involves a Husky-German Shepherd mix that was declared “Potentially Dangerous” following a one-time encounter with another dog. The encounter resulted in no significant injury to either dog or any person. In fact, in the report filed by Minneapolis Animal Care and Control about the case, the responding Animal Control Officer determined that he did “not have any evidence that allows me to determine that ‘Lupa’ did not bite another dog.”

This statement effectively placed the burden of proof on the dog owner to prove a negative – that his dog did not bite. This raises other serious Constitutional questions, as does the hearing process the City provided for the owner of the dog to try to do so.

As this case is preparing to move before the Minnesota Court of Appeals, one of the issues that will come forward is the Due Process clause of the U.S. Constitution as well as Article I, Section 7 of the Minnesota Constitution, which requires that there be a “meaningful” hearing, consisting of live testimony, rather than simply a determination based internal review of paperwork.

The lack of a meaningful hearing was recently addressed by another “dangerous dog” case, Sawh v. City of Lino Lakes, in which Minnesota Court of Appeals threw out “Potentially Dangerous” AND “Dangerous” designations because there was no “meaningful hearing” for the initial “Potentially Dangerous” designation, which was then used to later boost the dogs designation to “Dangerous”.

Article courtesy of animalarkshelter.org

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You had a great time hiking through fields and forests, but now it’s time to pay the price. It seems your companion brought home a coat filled with bristly souvenirs- and you’re in charge of Operation Unstick.
Burrs are the rough, prickly seedcases of certain plants, and they seem to leap out whenever your pet passes by. Depending on where they lodge, burrs can cause matting, skin irritation or infection. What’s more, they can be as hard to remove as chewing gum.
To get around this thorny problem, try these tips from the experts.
Look for hideaways. Burs can stick in the darnedest places, so you’ll want to inspect your pet closely for these hidden prickly pains, says Hazel Christiansen, owner of Blue Ribbon Pet Grooming Shop Association. “Check between all the toes, on top of the feet, around the testicles and in the armpits- Just about anyplace there’s a little crevice,” she says.
Take the dry road. Once burrs get snarled into your pet’s coat, be sure to remove them before he manages to get himself wet. “The tangled hair around the burr will shrink like a wool sweater after it gets wet, and you’ll have an extra-hard time trying to get the burr out,” says Linda A. Law, a certified master groomer and director of the Canine Clippers School of Pet Grooming in Dumfries, Virginia.
Put your fingers to work. “It’s really important to remove burrs as soon as you can so they don’t dig in and create mats and irritations,” says Law.
If the burr has only recently lodged, you may be able to remove it with just your fingers or a pair of tweezers. If it’s been there longer, however, it may be tangled inside a hair mat. To undo the mat, pull it apart with your fingers little by little, working from the end of the hairs down toward the roots. After you get the burr out, run a comb or brush through the hair to really smooth things out, advises Law.
Loosen ‘em with a lube job. When a burr is really tangled, applying a little vegetable oil will help get it loose, says Shirlee Kalstone, a New York City groomer and author of The Complete Poodle Clipping and Grooming Book. A spritz of detangling spray, available at pet stores, can also help. If you’re buying a detangling spray for your cat, however, read the label to make sure it’s feline-friendly, Kalstone adds.
Try the kindest cut. If you’re have trouble removing burrs with your fingers, try cutting them out, says Kathe Barsotti, a certified master groomer and owner of Featherle Pet Care in Herndon and Sterling, Virginia. She recommends using blunt-tipped scissors to avoid accidentally gouging your pet. It’s best to cut perpendicular to the mat, not parallel to it. “Just make sure you’re cutting hair and not skin,” she says.
Keep it short. Keeping your pet’s coat neatly trimmed won’t prevent burrs from sticking, but it will make them easier to remove. “Then at least the burrs won’t stick so badly,” Barsotti says.
Pass up prickly places. In the future, the one sure way to avoid burrs is to stay away from infested areas. If you’ve had a problem with one trail or field, walk your animal somewhere else next time,” says Kalstone.

For more ideas read The Doctors Book of Home Remedies for Dogs and Cats for these and more ideas.

For pet insurance visit https://www.petinsurancestore.com/parsers/brokerparser.aspx?agencyid=87
Priority Code- BR10MARS87

For all your insurance needs contact Mars Insurance Agency or visit us online at www.marsinsurance.com

Ease the Aches
When your dog gets out of bed in the morning, does he hobble like a wounded war hero? Is your once-graceful cat shuffling around like Walter Brennan? Arthritis can be a real pain in the neck – not to mention the hip, elbow and back.
While there are many kinds of arthritis, the one most likely to strike your pet is osteoarthritis. Also called degenerative joint disease, it usually comes about after years of wear and tear on hard-working joints.
Large pets are especially vulnerable to osteoarthritis, but even the smallest cat can feel its piercing pangs. “It hurts, and without your help, it’s not going to feel better,” says Mark M. Smith, D.V.M., associate professor of surgery in the Department of Small Animal Clinical Sciences at Virginia-Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine in Blacksburg, Virginia, and co-author of Atlas of Approaches for General Surgery of the Dog and Cat.
Once your pet starts getting arthritis, he’s going to need a vet’s care. Your vet may advise giving anti-inflammatory drugs, like buffered aspirin or cortisone. Even acupuncture can be a big help. In addition, there are many things you can do at home to help him get around more comfortably.
Lighten his load. Heavy pets are considerably more likely to suffer joint pain than their slimmer counterparts. “Slimming him down is one of the best things you can do for him,” says James D. Lincoln, D.V.M., associate professor and chief of small animal surgery at the Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine in Pullman. “It reduces the stress on the joints and can provide enormous relief.
Helping him shed a few pounds may be as simple as cutting treats and table scraps from his diet. You also may want to switch him to a food that is less fat and more fiber than the one he’s been getting. That way he can eat the same amount but consume fewer calories.
Put his best paw forward. Regular exercise is vital to controlling the progression of arthritis, which is why vets often recommend taking pets for a 20 minute walk several times a day.
Many cats adore going for walks, although they often insist on setting the course! Because felines wriggle out of collars so easily, it’s usually best to fit them with a harness.
If your cat isn’t leash-trained, having a lively play session – with a ball, a pull toy or some other “active” toy- is a good substitute.
“Good muscle tone and muscle mass will help alleviate undue force on the arthritic joint,” Dr. Smith says.
If 20 minutes seems too long, try taking shorter walks up and down small hills. Walking on the beach is also fine, as long as your pet doesn’t run or dig too much. “Experiment and see what he likes,” says Dr. Smith. “If he’s more lame than usual the next day, you know you’ve done too much. Just use common sense and don’t overdo it.” It’s also a good idea to check with your vet before beginning any new exercise plan.
Try some home improvements. If your pet sleeps outdoors, make sure his usual abode is well-protected. “Cover it with a plastic sheet or insulation so the cold wind doesn’t stiffen his joints,” says David E. Harling, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Greensboro, North Carolina, who specializes in orthopedics and ophthalmology.
Let him sleep in. “When it’s cold and damp outside, your arthritic pet is going to hurt,” says Ralph Womer, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Auburn, Alabama. “Your pet’s joints will thank you if you bring him inside for the night.
Make a cozy bed. “If your pet is sleeping on a hard surface, he’ll probably get some relieve fi you switch to something soft,” says Dr. Harling. During the cold months, he’ll appreciate curling up on a soft layer of synthetic fleece. You can even invest in a heated pet bed, available in some pet stores and animal supply companies.
Lay on something warm. A little moist heat, applied directly over painful joints, can be a real comfort to arthritic pets, says Sue Stephens, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Winston-Salem, North Carolina.
One trick is to use a hot water bottle (filled with warm, not hot, water). Or soak a towel in warm water, wring it out and drape it over the affected area. When the towel cools, replace it with a fresh one.
Apply the heat twice a day, morning and evening, for about 15 minutes each time. “It makes them feel so much better, especially in the morning when they tend to be stiffer,” says Dr. Stephens.
Be the Wizard of Ahs. Have you ever felt achy, and then some kind soul gave you a soothing massage? “Imagine being able to do that for your pet,” says Robert A. Montgomery, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in New Philadelphia, Ohio.
Gently kneed the sore area with small, circular motions, Dr. Montgomery says. Gradually extend the massage until you’ve gone a few inches beyond the painful joint, then gradually work your way back. “Once the animal looks more relaxed than when you started, you’ve done something right,” says Dr. Montgomery.
Raise the dinner table. If your pet has a stiff neck, try putting his food and water bowls up off the floor so he doesn’t have to lower his head as much at mealtimes, suggests Dr. Harling. You can put the bowls on a block of wood or in a firm box. Or you can buy a pet-bowl stand at pet stores.
For more ideas read The Doctors Book of Home Remedies for Dogs and Cats for these and more ideas.

For pet insurance visit https://www.petinsurancestore.com/parsers/brokerparser.aspx?agencyid=87
Priority Code- BR10MARS87

For all your insurance needs contact Mars Insurance Agency or visit us online at www.marsinsurance.com